![]() ![]() With the 3D router I make the grooves that will allow me to lock the plunge system at the desired height. I make a groove on the sides to insert the aluminum square tubes on which the plunge system will slide. First I’ll cut the missing pieces following the cutting list. I’ll leave a link at the end of the video. I’ll pick up where I left off in the last video, which you can also find on my channel. Now I’ll show you how to build the station. I need to make a few homemade chisels with the exact shape for each part of the pin in order to speed up the process. Little by little, I’ll give shape to the piece. I can use common carpentry chisels for turning. I place the tailstock and the toolrest and select the speed. Since it’s threaded, I can hold the workpieces without putting too much strain on the router. As an axis, I’ll use this accessory that comes with nearly every rotary tool to use with polishing wheels. ![]() This is the piece that holds the strings against the bridge, which sometimes breaks due to the high pressure it withstands. First I mark the centers on the wood. I’ll make a bridge pin for an acoustic guitar. ![]() Now I’ll show you the station’s lathe function. Of course, I can use all sorts of accessories, such as the drum sander. Here I can make all kinds of cutting jobs using the multitude of bits available on the market. ![]() Finally, I’ll have to pull out the router table. To do that I’ll have to remove its table and the height-adjusting knob. Now I’ll use the workstation’s router function. The workstation would be very useful in these kinds of milling jobs. I apply some DIY oil on the truss rod cover and screw it to the guitar’s headstock. I’m going to trim the cover to make it thinner. Now I’ll glue on the letters with a mixture of epoxy and some shavings from wood of a similar color. A few days ago I made a similar inlay with a homemade plunge base both tools are perfect for the job. I mark their outlines on a piece of wood and start cutting away at the wood. I’ll start with a 2mm bit, and then I’ll use a finer one for the corners. I finish cutting the letters with a coping saw. I’ll lower the router and drill the inner holes of the letters. I’ll make a little engraving with the initials of my logo using motherpearl. Now I’ll try to make a truss rod cover for a guitar I built a few years ago. What I have in mind is to make a compound table for this workstation, which will make these kinds of straight milling operations easier. I set the milling depth using the hinge itself as a reference. I’m going to mill this piece of cherry wood to fasten a little hinge to it. With the router at its highest part, we can mill pieces up to 140mm in height. I’m going to perform some tests to show you how it works. If you are interested in making your own workstation or collaborating with my work, here you can buy and download the plans. This workstation could also be used with other bigger and more powerful routers. With this steel rod and ball bearing bushing system, I’ve managed to almost completely avoid any looseness. For the plunge system I thought about using drawer slides, but these have too much play. I’ve built a robust fastening system, using a hose clamp, a thread of an old sharpening device that I’d never used. It will come in handy when doing small operations, such as marquetry and luthier work in my case. This is the second article about my new 3-in-1 workstation for dremel-type rotary tools. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |